Martinmas supper without a goose to chase: chicken, potatoes, onions, and apples, roasted in a double portion on purpose.

Martinmas dinner is goose in the old country — legend says a flock of geese gave Martin away when he hid from being made bishop, and geese have been served ever since. Most of us do not have a goose, and Martin would not have minded. He made his name giving away half of what he had. This roast follows his rule instead of the menu: plain pantry food, roasted until sweet at the edges, made double on purpose. Half stays on your table. Half leaves the house warm, in somebody else's hands.

What Goes In

8 bone-in chicken thighs (about 3 pounds), or one whole chicken cut in pieces · 2 pounds small potatoes, halved · 2 large onions, cut in thick wedges · 2 firm apples, cored and cut in wedges · 3 tablespoons oil or melted butter · 3 cloves of garlic, minced · 1 teaspoon dried thyme · 1 teaspoon salt · black pepper · a splash of broth or water for the pan. Makes about 8 servings — four for the table, four for the gate.

How It's Made

1. Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Put the potatoes and onions in a large roasting pan, toss them with half the oil, half the salt, and the garlic, and spread them out in one layer.

2. Rub the chicken with the rest of the oil, the thyme, the remaining salt, and a good grinding of pepper. Set the pieces skin-side up on top of the vegetables.

3. Roast for 30 minutes, until the chicken skin is starting to crisp and the potatoes are browning at the edges.

4. Tuck the apple wedges in around the chicken, add the splash of broth or water to the pan, and roast 15 to 20 minutes more, until the chicken is cooked through, the potatoes are tender, and the apples are soft and golden.

5. Rest the pan off the heat for 10 minutes. Spoon some of the pan juices over everything before it goes to the table — and before the gate half goes into its container, while it is still warm.

Keeping note: The gate half travels best warm, packed right after the rest, with a wedge of apple in every portion. Leftovers keep three days in the fridge and reheat kindly, covered, in a low oven. Like all the best soul food, it is better shared on the first day than saved to the third.